Saturday, May 9, 2020

A better model for skilled players

The skill in poker is why people who want to make money play. Some might not care if they lose more than they win and just dream about delivering bad beats or like bluffing and have a blast and maybe free alcohol at the casino. But the majority of us are either in it to make money, or to develop the skills to one day make money by playing against tough competition or demoing different strategies to try to improve. Bluffing a pro might also be cool but isn’t the focus. A strategy should accommodate that goal and a model should accommodate that strategy. The ICM model is horrible. It works great in all in or fold scenarios but there are players who win without ever being anywhere close to all in... particularly in slower structures. It’s not easy, you have to actually be one of the best at poker and also play consistently at a high level for a long period of time without ever cracking. But I’ve done it, I’ve watched others do it, I’ve heard stories about it, I’ve made good calls and received bad beats and came back short stack to have to survive 2 all ins just to get back to a third of where my stack was to go on and win it without being all in again after that suggesting that in hindsight that all in with a dominant favorite could have been a fold.

The question of when to call for all your chips has been under a ton of scrutiny. Everyone pounds the point home of the ICM saying somewhere between 51% and 56% should be a call hand one. But that’s an absurd model based on coinflipping with all players even those that put in their money with a bluff and bet small with a big hand, even those that put in 1/3rd of their stack before folding. Even those that only ever check and call and allow you to define bet size. I have a different mindset.
If you are just slightly better than average you can and probably still should follow ICM. This probably applies to 70% of players, and that’s a problem because 80% think they are better than average. If you can make the ante stages in a format like the below over half the time without ever being all in.

However, there is more than one way to model a strategy. Being able to survive to see 18 more hands does make a significant difference on the quality of hand you can afford to wait for, so you could use the ICM model and adjust slightly for skill, but the amount of chips you have increasing by 10% as a very long term average isn’t going to matter.

But where the ICM model really fails is where you have a significant skill advantage.


If you can manage (fairly) low risk chip accumulation at a fairly high rate you can hover above 20 big blinds perpetually in some slower structures when play is fast enough without being all in. This amount of skill level may be really aggressive but shows that theoretically a skill level may allow for the folding of really strong hands preflop and giving up really big edges if you can steal your way to a victory.

I will elaborate on whether or not the skill level is possible but the idea is to show that a substantially skilled player shouldn’t call off his tournament life according to ICM models if substantial skill can be consistently demonstrated.

A more likely scenario might be that for say the top 25% of the field they tend to last and face each other and their edge declines. I think the edge can go up substantially in the ante periods as the patient players who tend to survive tend to not adjust strategies to the antes. Another thing that happens is stack sizes decline relative to the blinds and the edge declines and/or risk goes up. But if you can model your chipstack over time from the point of where you are now to say 25 big blinds when skill level declines to where maintaining low risk accumulation begins to become difficult. It really doesn’t become a requirement for all in or fold until 7 big blinds in my opinion but if you get too short stacked it’s hard to gain any additional play/skill level without risk and there is a bennefit to doubling up earlier, so I feel by choosing below 20 big blinds or 15 it’s a better way to identify where you project to get to before it becomes jam or fold....




I could get to this number with more than 100 big blinds as if opponents poorly adjust to antes, play 10% away from equilibrium and you can find a few spots to exploit you could easily play close to equilibrium plus get the rest of the way with exploits of mistakes. That would get you to 10BB per 100 which in 5 rotations is about 2 big blinds, that doesn’t include the ante but WITH antes the edges might be bigger. Nevertheless, it’s a stretch to get to this at 20 big blinds without risk.

But, there is hope. In a post “How wrong is ICM”; we concluded that in the ante stages with a 2x pot bet we would win just over 4 big blinds per rotation in steals alone if everyone at your tabled adjusted to literally use ICM. I don’t think they actually will play that way, but you also would have equity when they try to slow play and let you see a cheap showdown. I would go one step further. The point I want to make now is that based on the current understanding the public has, it’s impossible for them to play anything like “perfect” poker in tournaments. While there may be something like equilibrium poker in cash games, all tournament poker is exploitable. If they open up really wide assuming their opponents adjust properly you can 3bet them really light and if they respect ICM they have to fold too much. And if you have enough chips that’s low risk chip accumulation. If they don’t, and opt to call too much you can value 3bet light and control the pot size later. If stack sizes get bigger you can flat call in position with a stronger hand than opponent or if you recognize flaws in his game. If they open up only slightly more than they call, you can autoprofit any two by stealing. If they play like a cashgame, other people will knock them out and the big pots will be an ICM disaster and if they don’t adjust to the ante there are huge profits to be accumulated over time. Ideally you can wait for better conditions and try to avoid them except in small pots where you have a fairly big edge. If they adjust to pot size you can jam light or play bigger pots and they can’t call you often enough and you steamroll, particularly if you have more chips and you can afford the volatility of bigger pots when you’re ahead and they can’t when they’re ahead or behind and they can’t afford to wait for good enough hands to take the volatility of raising a big pot. And if they bluff  the pot will get way too big when you have a strong enough hand. There’s nothing like an ICM solution until it gets into Jam or fold where ICM sort of functions, there’s a lot of really bad ideas on how a tournament should be played. If they jam too often and you have them significantly out chipped you can call with a stronger hand and still expect to gain chips even accounting for volatility. If they have a bit more chips you have to wait for a much stronger hand but you can still gain chips at low varience.


How we play might look more like this. We then can see our tournament life hand one is worth about 12750. While we may be able to gain for a bit longer as we get to 14880, we need to buy ourselves a hand to play for a coinflip and play ICM poker from then on in.  And we need to account for varience. And since according to ICM the chips we lose are worth more than the chips we gain, varience hurts our results. But we could take our survival hand one, incorporate our skill and factor in ICM from where we project to end up with that skill (12000 chips or about 3x our starting stack) and then run ICM to determine our value. Roughly speaking, if there are still far from the money bubble 12000 chips is worth about the percentage of the prize pool that we hold in chips.
FOr example, if there are 1000 entrants in a $10+1 tournament, there is $10000 in the prize pool and 3000*1000=3M chips and we have 12000/3M=~$42.00.

To be prudent we won't actually get to that spot 100% of the time but we will be comparing it to when we double up vs when we lose. The other challenge will be do multiple double ups help, do we stand to find better opportunities to double up by waiting?

Nevertheless if we are dealt AK first hand, someone jams and accidentally shows and we are 60% to win is it worth it? Lets reconstruct skill chart with 6000 chips.


In this case while hovering above 20BBs we have more low varience chip accumulation methods available to us The higher skill lasts until the competition thins and gets tougher and our stack dwindles in Big Blinds. Then it catches up to us and we will be forced to go into ICM mode. So a double up is worth maybe 35,000 to 45,000 chips where as surving is worth ~12,700.

So is it setled? do we call? At first glance it seems that if we are even 32% chance to get to 40k we should take the gamble that we can parlay it into steals in later levels... but without the ability to run a lot of hypotheticals and pair it with probability of each hypothetical, this is very much an educated guess and somewhat subjective also. Is our skill level really this high the first few levels into the ante? Even if you monitor your hands it will take 300,000 hands before you are within 1.5big blinds of your actual bb/100 win rate*. and in a tournament it will be very different also.
*source https://www.pokerstarsschool.com/strategies/what-is-bb-100-poker-explained/754/

This is tricky though... What if we can fold and we can double up and hover above 20BBs anyways? What if you using a bit higher varience can gain a larger skill edge? If a gamble the first hand even with only a 32% chance to get to What other methods are there?

Well we can look at max patience to determine probability of getting a better hand, but there is no guarentee we get called. We could also build a more sophisticated spreadsheet to run a model that features probability of us winning the blinds, winning on CBet, and other variables for every hand based on some assumptions about how our opponents play and what our range is and playing that way determine our results by approximate finish.

For the time being, we will construct a model based on hands approximately dealt during each time frame. Without the double up, we have 280 hands left while we apply that edge. With the double up we have about 380 hands. They’re both huge. And we still need to know what blind level the final table takes place. I usually guess average stack is about 15BBs. With 1000 players starting at 3000 and thus 3million in chips divided by 9 at final table is 333,333 big blinds average stack divided by 15 is 22,222. So round down to 10,000/20,000 blind levels at the final table. A single double up is not enough if done early. But what if we double up close to when we have 12,000 chips and do so with a superior hand to ace king? Can we perhaps parlay that into a much deeper run?

This is the challenge with a model that incorporates skill but it is much more useful than ICM in earlier stages. How about we say we double up halfway in. With 280 hands or 14 levels total we say 7 levels in. 6750 in chips. That’s great because it would put us at the 100/200 level just before antes get involved and that means we jump up to about 13500 in chips with some momentum and enough chips to play at a high rate of skill. In fact. Even when skill levels off a bit to 1.5 (which it might not since we might have close to 30 big blinds instead of 2)—we still have the ability to hover above 15 big blinds nearly all the way to the final table. And if we take some well timed aggression we may have a skill higher at a few levels. But ultimately a double up from 6750 leads to us grinding up to about 120,000 in chips before we have to get close to going into ICM mode. I don’t know how accurate this is because when you hover around 15 big blinds varience will cause you to dip below. And even though you can still open up pretty wide and fold it isn’t long before a few minraises forces you into jam or fold with less chips. But certainly it seems parlaying the double up at the right time is worth a lot more. The early double up we concluded was worth 40,000 in chips. If we win 60% of the time, that’s worth 24,000 in chips. Even if you took the late double up with 120,000 only 20.01% to win or more it would be worth more than the early double uo if you could only double up once. But we still didn’t make the final table yet and we have the chance to consider a second double up. Let’s add another double up for both and convert it into final table percentage and top 5 percentage...
After the first double up we have 380 hands rather than 280. While there’s a chance our opponent won’t have us covered early there’s a lot more hands for the second double up. A late first double up 7 rounds (140 hands)in still will require one more double up to final table and we will have about 340 hands to find the next double up. But if we double up from 50,000 chips or so to 100k in the 19th round after the late double up we will for sure final table and probably get to 5 left with 7 big blinds.
And if we only need 2 double ups in 28 levels—lets say 560 hands—even if we only get called on half our big hands, in 560 hands how many times do we get dealt QQ? In a Monte Carlo of 560 hands drawn 10,000 times, we got QQ+ an average of 7.57 times per 560 hands. We got it 4 or more times 86.8% of the simulations. We got it 8 or more times 48.4% of the tournaments. We got KK+ an average of 5.02 times per 560 hands. We got it 4 or more times 74.5% of simulated tournaments. We got KK 8 or more times 13.3% of tournaments. So if we get called half the time we jam, we can jam with KK and get two calls roughly 74.5% of the tournaments where we play 560 hands. If we get called 25% of the time we jam we can jam and get called roughly half the tournaments we play at least 560 hands.

See also— http://nutballpoker.blogspot.com/2018/07/tournament-strategy-design.html

In any case, being all in with QQ+ vs calling range or KK+ vs calling range even if overbet jamming loses some skill by not protecting our other raising hands as much should yield a very high final table percentage depending on the timing of when we get these hands and the calling range. But if we are say 75% to win on average and need to survive twice, we are looking at a 56.25% chance of surviving. So players with substantial skill would be insane to risk a 40% chance of elimination on the first hand and the ICM model is absolutely horrible for the very very elite players or even those who participate in the very very slow structures against a very large field against very bad players like the WSOP main event.

Having more chips is a huge asset for risk management, but how do you get there while managing risk?

At any rate if there are about 2.2big blinds in the pot the any two vs ICM players is really close to an M of 2. If they open their hand ranges but fold too much at any stage of the hand and you manage the bet size accordingly, you can bennefit by gaining at a high rate with any two also. If they call too often when in the hand you benefit by not bluffing and extracting the full equity of the hands behind. I think a net gain of 2M per level is more than attainable and per rotation is difficult but doable. But we don’t need a NET gain of 2M, we need a net gain of 1M per rotation. That is about 2.2big blinds gained net per rotation. This is also for 12 minute blind structure and I had some difficulty finding the exact file I was looking for but even with this blind structure there are some online 15minutes increases and slower structure so such a high rate may be unnecessary as well.

Does this mean you should avoid all ins entirely? No, but it means you can substantially raise your standards for all in and find success with more passive styles for pot control and more bluff-catching rather than thin value betting, and bluffing very tactically*

Bluffing very tactically may mean picking the opponents who have too low of continue frequencies. It may mean less often, smaller bets.















Thursday, August 2, 2018

Scientific Tapering

Many players who have played tons of tournaments noticed their results improve by tapering. What that means is as the tournament goes deeper on bet sizes that may have started at anywhere from 3 to 6 big blinds decline to a minraise gradually over time. As the average stack tends to decline in terms of big blinds while increasing in absolute terms, risking larger and larger percentage wise

I don't think most of them know why this is good other than they are risking less to acheive the same results while players become increasingly tight to preserve their survival.

However, there's a very good reason we should want to taper more so by our stack sizes and why opponents should be less and less willing to call based upon their own stack sizes as bets increase proportional to their stack size.

Tournaments are about long term survival. People can talk all they want about expected value, but the longer the tournament goes on, the more even the best tournament players will get eliminated if they don't manage their risk.

You actually gain more by risking less at least in terms of long term growth rate. Not only that, but you gain a better growth rate to volatility ratio the less you risk. Some amount of volatility is unavoiadable so I'm not going to advise folding aces preflop to an all in, but if you had a choice of risking 65% of your chips on aces or 100% you'd be better off risking 65%. If you are a 60% favorite you may be better off risking something like 25%. Perhaps even risking less than this is better because there isn't a huge reason to try to squeeze out a slightly larger growth rate in exchange for volatility when you cannot safely move down in stakes or reduce the risk after a loss and the rising blinds virtually ensures that volatility will require an increased risk of elimination.

The question is, is it better to triple your stack with minimal volatility and be forced to go all in some point after that, or is it better to quadruple it some percentage of the time at risk of being forced to go all in much earlier and possibly bust a higher percentage of the time... and if you quintuple it successfully you have better hands to choose from and more chips when you ultimately do risk it all and successfully win.

I'm not totally sure what the answer is. From my own experience and observations and math I do believe that there is tremendous value in growing your chips in absolute terms for a long time. Although I'm uncertain at which point and under what exact conditions you should be willing to risk it all, I can tell you that passing up edges for a very big chance of applying your skill in small pots and resulting in a very low volatility and high probability growth of chips is useful.

I also believe knowing how to continue to grow chips even as your stack size goes smaller is very important. For me when I get around 20 big blinds I no longer am effectively still able to accumulate chips at the same rate and the fewer chips I have below 20, the lower my rate goes. And then at some point as an extreme short stack my ability to accumulate chips actually goes up because at some point my opponents are a lever to scare away other opponents and I can triple up or quadruple up while being headsup to see 5 cards while my other opponents may only see their preflop holdings or a flop before being chased away. Additionally, as a short stack pushing with far more hands becomes profitable. Folding may give up missed opportunity to have positive EV, however folding has an increased chance of survival and increased chance of being dealt a situation that is even more EV due to stack sizes. I will get called by multiple players with a premium hand and that can propel me from 4 big blinds to say 15 really quickly without risking too great of a chance of survival.

Well I'm not sure it's a good move to put yourself in a situation where you are chronically short stacked even knowing eventually everyone will be relatively short stacked, so it's hard for me to say if it's better to be liberally willing to risk an all in while you still have hchips relative to the blinds so that you can gain utility in being able to accumulate chips instead of dipping below 20 big blinds and slowly and steadily having to resort to increased desperation, or if it's better to play the shovecharts, or if it's better to play super nitty.

But I do know that it does pay to find ways to continue to accumulate chips and give yourself more ability to withstand or limit chip volatility as the tournament progresses and that will hopefully allow you to maintain a comfortable stack without additional risk.

That being said, here are a few decisions determined by the kelly criterion calculator. Note that betting 2 times the kelly or half of the listed amounts when I suggest tapering is not the end of rht e world if doing so increases EV at the expense of  but betting more than twice that

 Under 70 big blinds you should reduce to minbet with under half pot
 35-60BBs - check for pot control... 2 streets of value plus .40 pot bets when you are 60% to win
[down to 50 big blinds 1/3rd pot bet can get 3 streets of value.]
[down to 25 big blinds 1/3rd pot 2 streets of value is still 1 kelly.]
[down to 11.96 big blinds we can minbet plus a 1/3rd pot once (about a min bet again)]

This is all assuming calls and a 60% chance of winning. Reality will have different plans, particularly when we aim for only one single bet.

Obviously there is little we can do to protect our hands against raises aside from risking more than the kelly and risking all of our chips potentially. You can't avoid the risk and you should be aware of how having to reduce bet size reduces your win rate in BB/100.

The antes plus escalating big blinds actually neutralizes the short stack somewhat. In other words, no matter how short stacked you get, you're never that many double ups pplus blinds and antes away from being back in it. Take having a single ante chip left when the antes are 1/3rd the small blind. If you win the hand, you go up to 9 ante chips which is 3 small blinds or 1.5 big blinds. If you go all in on the next hand, you get 1.5 small blinds in antes plus 1.5 by the small and big blind, plus at a minimum someone matches your 1.5 but let's say there is a raise and a 3bet and you call the 3bet and at some point everyone folds. 1.5+1.5+1.5+1.5+1.5. Now you have 7.5 big blinds
2 double ups from $25 in 75/150 with 25 antes and you have went from 25 to 1125.
Now blinds go up to 100/200 $25 ante. If you jam and everyone folds you pick up 500 to 1625. 2 double ups plus a jam from 25 to 1625.2. One more double up plus blinds and antes to 3750.4 and you have 18.752 big blinds.
If you say had AA with one preflop caller twice and jammed with AJ and then doubled up with KK you might be something like .8*.8*.7=44.8% to survive. A little less because no one called your jam with AJ. But a 44.8% chance of going from a single ante or 1/3rd of a big blind to 18 big blinds? I'm being a little generous, but it goes to show the point that being patient is more valuable than you think in an age when everyone else is shoving at equilibrium and everyone else is taking any plus EV spot not considering how much more plus EV it is to be so shortstacked loose tables can't properly defend from giving you a really good chance of getting paid off and then they're playing for a side pot.

This is not even to suggest passing up +EV spots is the right move but IF you can reliably gain chips even as the blinds rise, even going card dead for a very long extended period of time at a wildly loose table shouldn't force you to do something out of desperation necessarily. The edge in reliably being able to multiply your stack to later stages of the tournament is worth a lot

The probability of getting dealt JJ+ or AK at least once in X number of hands is about 1-(.967^X). So if you have 30 hands left, you have about a 63.5% chance of getting it. I would play slightly more hands and you will if you constantly adjust based upon your hands left but you may find more favorable spots to attempt a steal such as having AQ on the button when it folds to you or AJs or TT. Those hands are outside of the range I listed, but the spot is better since you will be jamming and since it folds to you indicating no one prior to you had a hand and thus you only have to be better than 2 opponents, not the normal full 9.

When you are deep in the money and especially near the final table and folding up a few spots counts and you ultimately only really need to survive one or maybe two all ins to fold your way to say 5th, I personally want to be very selective rather than pushing earlier and hoping I get enough chips to give me the breathing room to push with a few more and eventually get caught and have to win as an underdog.

Minraise and willing to fold is acceptable if your odds of winning are great enough down to like 10 big blinds and really 5 at risk of insane volatility.  But I'd only do that in a spot where I've waited 30 hands without playing and maybe I'm in early or mid position with ace rag. I have a blocker to ace combinations and I plan to fold and my opponents probably will have an ace or a big pair. If it fails at say 7 big blinds I may have to call off my tournament life from the small blind or maybe I'll get a walk or maybe I'll check see a flop and be able to get my money in good or maybe I will live to see another rotation, but I want a good chance of buying an extra rotation as 10 hands is a big deal. In 10 hands I have a 28.5% chance of picking up JJ+ or AK and a 43.5% chance of TT+,AJs+,AQo+

People who think this is a bad idea say something like, but then the blinds will go up. I want them to go up right before I get a hand, especially if the antes go up. That means I get a much better payout on the money, especially if you measuredd by big blinds at the prior level. I'd rather them go up right before I get the hand than right after. I also want them to go up right after I paid the big blind as that is 9 hands at increased rate of earnings if I get a hand


I do recognize that there is a really long shot opportunity to win from being very short stacked, but if I survive 80% of the time to very deep in the tournament and then get it all in with aces or at least a premium hand where I'm 70% vs the calling range Then I've got a really, really good chance to make it very, very deep and with a little luck I can still win a very high percentage of the time despite having say a field of 1,000 players.

But perhaps I'm better off getting my money in with the worst of it early on enough to parlay that into a big stack but not too early. I think to win tournaments without large risk of elimination you have to have at least some stage during the ante phases where you are able to steal a lot of pots repeatedly. So taking a risk at 20 big blinds in order to double up may be worth jamming even lighter than the push/fold charts with the idea being that if you get lucky and win when called or get lucky and face opponents that fold too often such that they make your weak shoves profitable when it shouldn't be then you might just get ahold of a lot of chips with a reputation of not being afraid to risk it all (thus opponents are unlikely to try to steal from you too much. and you may influence them to tighten up more. so One lucky win with a negative EV strategy overall and if you can gain a huge edge afterwards and gain a lot of utility and have one shot to get chips and if so now by tapering you can


Wednesday, August 1, 2018

Tournament Planning 2

A more thorough way to plan tournament strategy around the blind structure is to factor in more or less your entire strategy. You may prefer to have a goal to make the final table and from there just use ICM. ICM is terrible for entire tournaments but when you have 5 big blinds and everyone is short stacked (5-10 big blinds) it's all in or fold anyways. Skill may exist but it is really limited. Skilled players might fold a bit more or recognize when jamming slightly wider or slightly less often is better based upon how opponent's are playing and how well they know ICM shoves based upon payout structure.
Say a tournament has 500 hands until 5 handed. You can determine this by the following calculation
1)Number of entrants times average chips per player (starting stack plus add on plus rebuys per person) equals total chips in play.
2)Total chips in play divided by 5 players equals average stack at that stage.
3)average stack at that stage divided by the average number of big blinds like 10 equals the rough approximate blind
That equals the rough estimate of what the big blind is with 5 players left.
Once you know at what blind level, you simply need to know an estimate of hands per blind level. Usually live play is around 30 hands per hour and online is around 100 hands per hour. In other words 30 hands per 60 minutes or 1 hand every 2 minutes( 0.5 hands per minute) live and 100 hands per 60 minutes or 1.667 hands per minute. So if there are 30 minute blind levels live it is about 15 hands per blind level. So 15 times the number of blind levels until the big blind is where you anticipate 5 handed let's say 34 times 15=510 hands per tournament of this nature.

Once you know the number of hands, you can determine how many big blinds per blind level you need to win to avoid getting too short stacked. Your skill edge may diminish under 20 big blinds OR your risk will increase. I would prefer to raise more and take more risk unless I can coast into higher payouts if skill diminishes too much the blinds will catch you and then you have to get multiple double ups just to survive and resort to multiple all ins. If you take too much risk you may end up unnecessarily getting eliminated. There is a difficult balancing act.

Let's say for example you need to steal 3 times per blind level or win about 6.5 blinds per blind level on average whether that is one hand or 10 hands to avoid all ins. You can simply determine what hand range you need to play such that you have a more than 50% chance of getting this hand range 34 times or more.34 because 510/34=15. But with each hand you play you will have to gain 6.5 big blinds. Let's be honest that may be a little high so you will want to widen your range overall or be willing to risk all your chips a time or two or three with superior hands.

Unfortunately you may find out even if you execute this plan, you will spend about half the tournament between 15-20 big blinds.

If the goal is to avoid being all in, chances are this isn't a fast enough rate of chip accumulation given the higher variance that will occur in the 15-20 big blind range and the possibility for hands not coming as regularly, or earnings not maintaining a high enough rate... plus given the action before you act, you may prefer to fold. Foretunately the math is for more than 50% chance of 34 hands OR MORE so it allows us to fold a time or two and still have a good chance of doing very well with manageably limited risk.

But we can still use this hand range as a baseline and build a strategy around it.

So what is the hand range that in 510 hands we will get 34 times or more?
77+,AQo+,ATs+,KQs

Take a situation where it folds to you in Middle position and you raise with this range... We may want to be slightly tighter in early position and looser in late position and tighter when reraising. We also will want to look for any situation that has a better or similar low risk to high reward to a middle position raise equivalent to this.

I believe this strategy becomes most flawed in the ante stages and later on as it's lower risk to fight just a little harder to preserve chips to maintain a large enough stack to avoid anything that could even cause you to approach a stack where an all in may become necessary.

So how about this.

Pre ante stages: when it folds to you
Early position: raise 88+,AKo,AQs
Middle position: 77+,AQo+,ATs+,KQs
Late position:22+,AJo+,KQo,A2s+,[45s-KQs]
When facing a raise from
Early position: raise QQ+,call JJ, bluff raise AKs
Middle position:raise JJ+,call AKo,88-TT, bluff 22-77,AJo+, KQo,X9s (any 2 suits cards with low card 9 or higher)
Late position: raise 88+,AKo,AQs. Call 44-77,AJo,AQo,ATs,AJs,KJs+. Bluff X9o+,X6s+,Q2s+,K2s+,A2s+

Bluffs only done half the time or less unless there is knowledge that opponent folds too often.

Ante stages most people don't play enough hands in my opinion. There is math to back it up. Basically you will get the pot odds to call a raise. In this model the reason we become struggling to avoid all ins is because the blinds catch up to us and the antes are costly. Going card dead late has the most severe consequences and losing a hand or having to fold has greater consequences late.

So how do we adjust to the antes?
Early position: 55+,AQo+,AJs
Middle: 22+,AJo+,KQo,A8s+,K9s+,Q9s+J9s+,T8s+,97s+,76s,65s,54s
Late: 22+,A9o+,KTo+,QJo,JTo,T9o,A2s+,K2s+,Q8s+,J7s+,T6s,96s+,85s+,75s,64s+,54s

When faced with a raise in the ante stages every single hand in the "bluff" range you could call with, but I will say bluff with that range half the time and call the other half in the ante stages. The other details don't change because opponents don't adjust to the antes enough.

In addition, you are always looking for opportunity

For everything else keep risk mitigated to under 2x the Kelly bet such as a short stack jamming.


Adapting: Not every tournament will deliver enough hands and sometimes you may lose a big enough pot to where you are running way behind expectations. As you go below expectations I like to take additional risk (but calculated). If I haven't played a hand in 2 rotations I will raise any two halfway decent cards and if the blind steal fails I will be really cautious and usually check/fold as opposed to continuing. Save the cbets for playable hands. I also might minbet all 3 streets to virtually guarentee a call. This gives up a little bit of value and increases chance of suckouts for a high probability of decent chip accumulation. When you are barely hovering above 10 big blinds or even as you dip below 20 I think minbetting is a reasonable risk and giving up some value in exchange for a high probability of getting back in control is worth an increased chance of allowing a suckout as long as you can fold when they raise and adapt as needed.
Unless there is value from folding your way up a few blind levels, dont fear the all in, we strategize around it but if you are blinding down there, you need to take some chances to get back to manageable. I will usually minraise more frequently say around 7-16 big blinds or consider jamming after a few limpers or a small raise with a wider range.

Wednesday, July 11, 2018

Tournament Strategy Design

One way to model tournaments is to look at the blind levels and have an assumed/estimated rate of chip accumulation. You may accumulate more on different levels based upon your expected chip stack in big blinds, the size of the antes and what stage of the tournament.



Then you can determine you need to double up 3 times throughout the tournament in about 187 hands. You can then determine the probability that you are dealt a given hand X or more times.



Based on this information we need to double up about 3 times given the structure and we have a 64.8% chance of being dealt JJ or better 3 times or more and a 46.2% chance of being dealt QQ+. As you have gone through more hands without doubling up or if you are behind on the rate of chip accumulation you might decide you need to widen your range. you should constantly adjust based upon projected hands left. You can try to double up more or less than this amount and you could easily be dealt 99 and have it be stronger than JJ in certain conditions plus you have postflop to consider, but it's worth thinking about. So let's say you haven't doubled up and have accumulated chips at the expected rate minus a double up and you have 120 hands left projected. Now you can widen your hand selection. Or perhaps you've doubled up and only need to double up 2 more times, you can narrow your hand range or widen it depending on hands left. This is one way to approach risk. Perhaps you want a greater probability of cashing first and so you want a stronger hand and a greater probability of surviving. Or perhaps you want a greater probability of winning and think you can parlay an earlier double up into a greater edge and less risk overall. You can make adjustments. Perhaps there are lots of postflop situations and can get your money in better. Perhaps you aren't likely to get action with your big hand so you need to widen your range or find a way to increase your edge. But this is a good baseline to start with. Slower structures you can be more selective assuming you can still get paid off when you have a hand.

Monday, July 9, 2018

how to calculate Jam or fold ICM

ICM is a valuable calculation in all in or fold scenarios because it can tell you concretely and objectively how much a decision is worth like jamming vs folding.
I have theories about in MTTs how deeper stacks allow players to apply a skill and the opportunity cost of survival to see more hands and find better spots is also greater, but with short stacks when everyone is short stacked near the end of tournaments or near the end of supersattelites or even on the bubble or in sit N Gos ICM is the most relevant because the other stuff doesn't come into play as much.

I would favor an alternative model that requires a lot of guess work for the tournaments that have more playability but ICM is really relevant in super short stacked situations.

Say for instance there are 13 players left in a super satellite that pays 11 places and 11th it pays 180 and 10th or less it pays 250. You have only 3 big blinds or 3000 in chip value with blinds 500/100 and 1000 ante but there are 2 players with fewer chips than you have. You are dealt QQ. It folds to you in the small blind. Folding is better than jamming. How do I know this?
ICM calculation.

There are ICM calculators online that will tell you how much a given chipstack is worth given you also plug in how much your opponents have so they know what percentage of chips you have. In an example I looked at, if you shove and opponent folds 20% of the time you go from 3000 (which is worth $183.05) to 5100 in chips (which is worth $221.71 in ICM) if they fold. But if the big blind calls and you win you go up to 7100 (which is worth $236.20).
So... if you are 75% to win with QQ
(.20*221.71)+(.52*236.20)+(.28*0)=
(44.34)+(122.82)+(0)=167.16
Since folding is worth 183.05, folding is better than jamming. Limping in for half a big blind might be okay provided you examine the very complex decision tree and possible outcomes of each decision and it proves to be more profitable than folding, but that requires a lot of information that you really can't be too confident about.
Folding QQ not only is better than jamming but making it puts $16 in your pocket vs the alternative. Your opponent should NOT be calling so widely, but if he is it hurts both you and your opponent. There is a weird dynamic where if you and your opponents are even in chips you can jam with any two and they might even be correct to fold aces, but as they widen their hand range they hurt themselves and hurt you too to and that continues as they widen their hand range the point where you possibly would be correct to fold aces if they are going to always call you.

You have to consider this as a possibility and look at other calling ranges and the value and weight them by probability of being correct.
If folding QQ with only 3 big blinds is worth that much think of how valuable folding other hands that you might normally want to push on the bubble with deeper stacks. If your opponent folds a lot more often which is possible you can come up with a different equation and when called your odds of winning might decline but you may make enough when opponent folds for it to increase in value and possibly be worth more than folding. Different payout structures may suggest a different strategy as well. You should be aware of the payout structure given X number of opponents and see how it changes and calculate for varying amounts approaching the bubble and on the bubble or have some method to come up with crude approximations because it can put extra money in your pocket.

Saturday, June 23, 2018

Wednesday, June 20, 2018

Bluffing

When you choose to bluff you want to have a hand not strong enough to call because you have value to continue by just calling. However, you can still bluff with the bottom end of your hand range that has value in calling and you especially can do so with hands with bad reverse implied odds and only marginal value to call. Hands like low pocket pairs has value vs one bet but not vs multiple if opponents narrow their range with streets and that prefer not to see multiple streets where play becomes more difficult you can consider raising as a bluff.

Assume opponent has 55+,AQo+,AJs+,KQs and he raises 2.2 in the ante stages in a tournament.
You can technically call if you are 32.26% to win.
That means you can call the raise with:
44+,A9o+,KTo+,QTo+,J9o+,T9o,A2s+,K6s+,Q8s+,J7s+,T7s+,97s+,87s

If our opponent will call a 3bet with tighter than TT+,AKo,AQs+ we can raise with any two profitably assuming we bet pot

If our opponent plays exactly this range we'd probably only want value over the calling range which may only be TT,JJ,AQs and sometimes AK, sometimes, AKs and sometimes QQ.

bluff equity vs opponents assumed calling range for reference:
33 35.898%
22 35.318%
Q7s 32.359%
Q6s 32.609%
Q5s 32.504%
Q4s 32.224%
Q3s 31.851%
Q2s 31.474%
K5s 31.452%
54s 31.429%
65s 31.382%
K4s 31.157%

76s 31.087%
J6s 30.983%
75s 30.174%
K3s 30.763%
K2s 30.366%
64s 30.033%
53s 29.973%
86s 29.903%
43s 29.689%
Q9o 29.890%
J8o 29.002%
85s 28.911%
74s 28.746%
96s 28.558%
T6s 28.231%
32s 27.844%

A8o 27.079%
K9o 27.776%
T8o 26.098%98o 25.545%


If our opponents make more mistakes after the flop we can bluff raise with a wider range.


On the flop:
On the flop bluff raising is a little bit different, but let's take a J72 board with 2 spades and one heart and let's look at an opponent who bets something like:
66+,22,A9s+,A5s,A2s,AJo+, J9 or a better jack J7s+,K7s,T9s,T7s,97s+,87s,57s,67s

All flushdraws we can mostly call and sometimes raise as a semibluff.

all    22    89.19%    most often raise, occasionally call
all    JJ    93.23%    most often raise, occasionally call
all    77    90.75%    most often raise, occasionally call
all    QQ    68.26%    usually raise, sometimes call
all    KK    72.54%    usually raise, sometimes call
all    AA    76.59%    usually raise, sometimes call
all    AJ    66.71%    call mostly, sometimes raise
all    A2    33.70%    almost always call
all    88    35.10%    almost always call
all    99    38.59%    almost always call
all    TT    42.11%    call
all    AA    76.59%   
all    a7    40%    call
backdoor spades (highcard)    AK    31.42%    mostly call, rarely raise
backdoor spades (lowcard)    AK    30.75%    mostly call, rarely raise
backdoor spades (suited hearts)    AK    30.56%    mostly call, rarely raise
backdoor spades (highcard)    t9    28.52%    mostly call, rarely raise
backdoor spades (lowcard)    t9    28.52%    mostly call, rarely raise
backdoor spades (suited hearts)    t9    28.52%    mostly call, rarely raise
backdoor spades (suited hearts)    t8    27.22%    mostly call, rarely raise
backdoor spades (highcard)    t8    27.09%    mostly call, rarely raise
backdoor spades (suited hearts)    98    27.06%    mostly call, rarely raise
no draw    AK    27.04%    mostly call, rarely raise
backdoor spades (highcard)    98    26.92%    mostly call, rarely raise
backdoor spades (lowcard)    t8    26.84%    mostly call, rarely raise
backdoor spades (lowcard)    98    26.64%    mostly call, rarely raise
backdoor spades (highcard)    AQ    25.91%    mostly call, sometimes raise
backdoor spades (suited hearts)    AQ    25.44%    mostly call, sometimes raise
no draw    t9    25.38%    mostly call, sometimes raise
backdoor spades (lowcard)    AQ    25.18%    mostly call, sometimes raise
all    66    24.56%    usually bluff raise
all    55    24.18%    usually bluff raise
no draw    t8    24.02%    float or bluff raise mixture
all    33    23.89%    usually bluff raise
no draw    98    23.84%    float or bluff raise mixture
all    44    23.46%    usually bluff raise
backdoor spades (highcard)    AT    22.63%    float or bluff raise mixture
backdoor spades (highcard)    kt    22.17%    float or bluff raise mixture
backdoor spades (suited hearts)    kt    22.05%    float or bluff raise mixture
backdoor spades (suited hearts)    AT    21.95%    float or bluff raise mixture
backdoor spades (suited hearts)    qt    21.87%    float or bluff raise mixture
backdoor spades (highcard)    qt    21.75%    float or bluff raise mixture
backdoor spades (lowcard)    kt    21.62%    float or bluff raise mixture
no draw    AQ    21.58%    float or bluff raise mixture
backdoor spades (lowcard)    AT    21.56%    usually bluff raise, sometimes fold
backdoor spades (lowcard)    qt    21.46%    float or bluff raise mixture
backdoor spades (highcard)    A9    21.09%    usually bluff raise, sometimes fold
backdoor spades (highcard)    A8    20.88%    usually bluff raise, sometimes fold
backdoor spades (suited hearts)    A9    20.55%    usually float, sometimes bluff raise, sometimes fold
backdoor spades (highcard)    k9    20.40%    usually float, sometimes bluff raise, sometimes fold
backdoor spades (suited hearts)    k9    20.33%    usually float, sometimes bluff raise, sometimes fold
backdoor spades (suited hearts)    A8    20.30%    usually float, sometimes bluff raise, sometimes fold
backdoor spades (suited hearts)    q9    20.17%    usually bluff raise, sometimes float, sometimes fold
backdoor spades (highcard)    q9    20.01%    usually bluff raise, sometimes float, sometimes fold
backdoor spades (lowcard)    A9    20%    usually bluff raise, sometimes float, sometimes fold
backdoor spades (lowcard)    k9    19.87%    bluff raise or fold
backdoor spades (lowcard)    q9    19.74%    bluff raise or fold
backdoor spades (lowcard)    A8    19.42%    bluff raise or fold
backdoor spades (highcard)    A5    19.05%    usually float, sometimes bluff raise, sometimes fold
backdoor spades (highcard)    A4    18.70%    usually float, sometimes bluff raise, sometimes fold
backdoor spades (highcard)    A3    18.70%    usually float, sometimes bluff raise, sometimes fold
backdoor spades (suited hearts)    A5    18.47%    usually float, sometimes bluff raise, sometimes fold
no draw    kt    18.31%    sometimes bluff raise, sometimes fold
no draw    AT    18.15%    sometimes bluff raise, sometimes fold
no draw    qt    18.14%    sometimes bluff raise, sometimes fold
backdoor spades (suited hearts)    A4    18.10%    usually fold, sometimes mixed bluff raise or fold
backdoor spades (suited hearts)    A3    18.10%    usually fold, sometimes mixed bluff raise or fold
backdoor spades (highcard)    A6    17.88%    usually fold, sometimes mixed bluff raise or fold
backdoor spades (suited hearts)    A6    17.30%    usually fold, sometimes mixed bluff raise or fold
backdoor spades (lowcard)    A5    17.25%    usually fold, sometimes mixed bluff raise or fold
backdoor spades (lowcard)    A4    16.90%    usually fold, sometimes mixed bluff raise or fold
backdoor spades (lowcard)    A3    16.90%    usually fold, sometimes mixed bluff raise or fold
no draw    A9    16.64%    usually fold, sometimes mixed bluff raise or fold
no draw    k9    16.47%    usually fold, sometimes mixed bluff raise or fold
no draw    A8    16.43%    usually fold, sometimes mixed bluff raise or fold
no draw    q9    16.33%    usually fold, sometimes mixed bluff raise or fold
backdoor spades (lowcard)    A6    16.10%    usually fold, sometimes mixed bluff raise or fold
backdoor spades (suited hearts)    86    15.42%    mostly fold very rarely float
backdoor spades (highcard)    86    14.86%    mostly fold very rarely bluff raise
backdoor spades (lowcard)    86    14.68%    mostly fold very rarely bluff raise
no draw    A5    14.64%    no draw
backdoor spades (suited hearts)    45    14.44%    mostly fold very rarely float
backdoor spades (suited hearts)    65    14.38%    mostly fold very rarely float
no draw    A4    14.30%    mostly fold very rarely bluff raise
no draw    A3    14.30%    mostly fold very rarely bluff raise
backdoor spades (suited hearts)    96    14.13%    mostly fold very rarely float
backdoor spades (suited hearts)    95    13.98%    mostly fold very rarely float
backdoor spades (highcard)    96    13.77%    mostly fold very rarely bluff raise
backdoor spades (highcard)    45    13.76%    mostly fold very rarely bluff raise
backdoor spades (lowcard)    45    13.75%    mostly fold very rarely bluff raise
backdoor spades (highcard)    65    13.72%    mostly fold very rarely bluff raise
backdoor spades (lowcard)    65    13.70%    mostly fold very rarely bluff raise
backdoor spades (highcard)    95    13.65%    mostly fold very rarely bluff raise
no draw    A6    13.38%    fold. only rare opponent specific decisions
backdoor spades (lowcard)    96    13.30%    fold. only rare opponent specific decisions
backdoor spades (suited hearts)    34    13.25%    mostly fold very rarely float
backdoor spades (lowcard)    95    13.12%    fold. only rare opponent specific decisions
backdoor spades (highcard)    34    12.48%    fold. only rare opponent specific decisions
backdoor spades (lowcard)    34    12.48%    fold. only rare opponent specific decisions
no draw    86    11.78%    fold. only rare opponent specific decisions
no draw    45    10.85%    fold. only rare opponent specific decisions
no draw    65    10.80%    fold. only rare opponent specific decisions
no draw    96    10.60%    fold. only rare opponent specific decisions
no draw    95    10.20%    fold. only rare opponent specific decisions
no draw    34    9.57%    fold. only rare opponent specific decisions

Some opponents fold often enough on the flop or on prior streets for you to profitably be able to bet any 2 cards but even so, you don't want to give opponent reason to adjust so unless you specifically know this opponent isn't capable of adjusting or only very occasionally mix in these bluffs when you haven't bluffed in awhile, you haven't played a pot with this opponent in awhile, your opponent maybe hasn't been tilted and doesn't have a reason to change his play and you haven't had a spot where you can bluff anyone in awhile especially this opponent. In that case the cards really don't matter but even so, I see no reason why you can't at least have some standards just in case your assumptions are wrong.... At least on the flop. By the river hands will approach zero equity or 100% and have much fewer hands between. On the turn there will still be some longshot draws with one card to improve and hands like KQ that could hit the top pair and still not be good but have at least some chance (like under 10%) of winning when called.

on say a J728 board with 2 suits you might bluff hands like:
KQ with flush draw
A2-A6 with flush draw.
A9
AT
KQ no flush draw
A7
A2

Value hands after 2 streets of betting go down.

On the river it's more about which river cards you bluff and how often then what hand since bluffs will have pretty close to zero chance of winning when called. Bluffs should be much less frequent on the river than on the flop and even than on the turn.



Theoretical bluff to value ratio looks something like this. For a half the pot bet you are giving your opponents 3 to 1 and therefore they only need to be right 1/4 times. You should bluff such you are indifferent to whether or not they call because if you bluff more often they can always call and if you bluff less often they can always fold bluff catchers.
So on the river you should bluff 25% of the time to make them right on 1/4 calls.
On the turn you get to leverage the possibility of multiple bets and hands that are value on the turn may lose value when facing a n additional bet so you can bluff more as some bluff hands will improve and become value hands and some value hands will decline. The purpose of bluffing more is so that the river frequency matches the ratio needed and to have balance for multiple possible rivers to represent.
So you should actually bluff if you intend on 2 half the pot bets 1-(.75*.75)=43.75% and on the flop
1-(.75*.75*.75) =57.8125% on the flop.
With larger bets your opponents get worse pot odds and therefore have to call less often so you can bluff more often and still force opponent to break even. However, keep in mind this % is not of total hands that you have, but total hands that you bluff. So given your opponent can fold more often, fewer hands have value when called and therefore, fewer bets for value and so the total % of hands you bluff might not be any larger and may even be smaller if you bet bigger.

Minimum defend frequency=bluff catching.

Your opponent has to defend some percentage of the time to prevent you from bluffing profitably with any two cards so on the river they need to call you based upon the price you get when you bet. You are risking 1 half bet to get 2 halfbets on a half pot bet so opponents must defend you 50% of the time by calling or raising.

I don't know how it works on the river, but let's just assume it procedes similarly to how we can bluff more. I believe if we bluff more our opponent can continue more (and rebluff more). So I believe if we bet half pot bet our opponent should defend 87.5% on the flop, 75% on the turn and 50% on the river to deny us the ability to parlay multiple bets and bluff successfully with any two.

That may be a little high, but certainly if our opponent defends a pot size bet less than 50% on any street we can profitably bluff with any two and many of the bluffing hands will have some equity on earlier streets so we can bluff pretty widely and should defend at least some percentage more than 50% when our opponent bets half the pot. We not only have to protect our hands but also protect multiple streets of multiple hands and force our opponent to consider a wide range of hands that we can have.

I think to confirm this we can run a simulation but I will do that later perhaps..

You never should bluff more than 50% on the river unless you know opponent folds too often and won't adjust.